R-Rated Pickles: Quick Gin Pickled Carrots & Zucchini with Rosemary

These are supposed to be a cocktail nibble.  They are best after about 5 days soaking in their gin-bath. And not to be shared with kids, because there is actually gin in them. Two of those  three statements are absolutely true. I can't vouch for the second statement, really, because I always start eating them within 3 days. Can't help myself. My third batch in a week, and there are only two measly carrots and a single zucchini stick left from the first one. Very little more of the second is left, and the third jar is intact  only because I really needed a good picture, and I did just make them today. They may be quick pickles, but I love them so much they aren't as quick as I'd like them to be ready to eat.

I call these pickles R-rated because they are so damn good, and with the gin, they're not for children. There is something like a happy marriage between juniper, which is one of the main flavors of gin, and rosemary, something cool and evergreen-ish in these pickles. A little spicy, a little sweet and a little martini like. Perfect.

Note: If you can actually get baby carrots at a farmer's market for these pickles, or grow them yourself, please do. Those things called baby carrots in bags at the supermarket are really big carrots that have been cut into tiny shapes on something the looks like a woodworker's lathe. Just cut some nice, full sized organic carrots into sticks if you can't find real baby carrots. Use either a regular quart canning jar, or if you have a cute 1 liter Weck jar like my pal Amy got me out in California, use that.  Just use something tall.

R-Rated Pickles:
 Quick Gin Pickled Carrots & Zucchini with Rosemary

R-Rated Pickles: Quick Gin Pickled Carrots & Zucchini with Rosemary

Makes 1 quart jar

4 or more real baby carrots depending on size, trimmed
2 young zucchini, each cut in 6 strips lengthwise
1 mild Anaheim or Jalapeño pepper, in 1/2" wide strips
1  5"  fresh rosemary sprig
1 3" strip of lemon or lime zest
3 oz. gin
5 garlic cloves
1T whole black peppercorns
1T whole coriander seeds
6-7 dried juniper berries
1 T kosher salt
1/4 cup sugar
1 cup white distilled vinegar
1 cup water


1. In a medium saucepan, put the peppercorns, coriander, juniper berries, salt, sugar water and vinegar. Bring to a boil and turn off the heat. Cover the pot and let stand while you prep the jar.

2. Place the garlic cloves into the bottom of a clean 1-quart or 1-liter canning jar. Trim the carrots, zucchini and pepper strips so that they are about 3/4" shorter than your jar. Pack the carrots, zucchini and hot pepper strips alternately into the jar, arranging for both aesthetics, and for even flavor distribution. The vegetables should come to about 1/2" from the top of the jar, packed tightly. Slide the zest, and the rosemary into the jar, and then add the gin.

3. Bring the vinegar mixture back to a boil, and skim out as many of the spices and add to the jar first, then pour the boiling liquid over the vegetables. It may not all fit, but scrape in as many spices as you can. Cover the jar, and let it stand on the counter until it reaches room temperature., and then refrigerate for at least 3 days before tasting. Should keep refrigerated about 1 month, although you'll have probably eaten them all within a week...

Now all I have to do is wait.

Brandade de Morue: A Ghost of Christmas Past

Two weeks ago, at a local bistro called Ella's, I had a wonderful brandade as an appetizer. I hadn't had any in years. I knew I had to make it again and soon. Because mine was better and I still had a scribbled list of ingredients...

Nearly 30 years because that was the last time I made it myself. Back in my twenties, I had a neighbor, Phil Dennis, who was a very fine cook, and a great mentor.  Some years previously I'd gotten the recipe for Brandade de Morue from a good French cook, but she'd simply jotted me a list of ingredients. I'd loved it when she made it, but up to that time my only cooking encounter with salt cod was baccala that some of my relatives served at Christmas. Luckily I had Phil to ask for help ( this was pre-home computers, about 1982) and armed with my ingredient list, and a couple of pounds of salt cod from the Reading Terminal Market, we managed to turn out several baking dishes of this absolutely heady, garlicky, unctuous seafood and potato puree. It also included several trips to the library (no Google), a messy kitchen and swapping cookbooks back and forth. We really put my new kitchen gadget...called a Cuisinart Food Processor through its paces.  Boy, that stuff was good!

I served it bubbling hot before Christmas dinner that year, and my mother, who was famous for eating so many hors d'oeuvres that she couldn't eat dinner, planted herself in front of the dish and didn't move. Well, Mom won't be at my Christmas dinner table, but I know she'll be there in spirit, planted firmly in front of the brandade.

Note: Most good fish markets, especially in Italian or Hispanic neighborhoods, will have salt cod. Plan ahead with the soaking time.

Sadly, we won't be eating this until tomorrow...

Brandade de Morue
Serves 8 as an appetizer

12 oz. salt cod, a thick filet
4 cups water
2 whole allspice berries
1/2 tsp. dry thyme leaves
2 whole cloves
5 whole peppercorns
3 bay leaves
3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 large shallot, sliced (about 1/4 cup)
2 lb. russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup garlic confit
(or 4 garlic cloves, sliced and cooked in 1/4 cup of olive  oil, use the oil, too)
Salt and pepper to taste

a crusty baguette, sliced, and toasted or not...

1. Two or three days ahead of when you want to serve the brandade, place the salt cod in a deep bowl, cover with water and place in the fridge. Change the water at least twice daily. This will remove the excess salt, and rehydrate the fish.

2. Place 4 cups of water is a deep, covered saucepan, and add the thyme, the cloves, the allspice the peppercorns, and the bay leaves.  Bring to a simmer and cook for 10-15 minutes. Remove from the heat, and with a slotted spoon, remove the cloves, peppercorns, allspice and bay leaves and discard. Drain the salt cod, and rinse. Add the garlic, shallot and the drained salt cod to the pot, bring to a bare simmer and cook, partly covered until the fish flakes easily, 15 t0 20 minutes.

3. Remove the fish, along with the garlic and shallot to a bowl and set aside. Add the potatoes to the fish stock and cook, partly covered until tender. Remove the potatoes to the bowl with the fish, and reduce the remaining liquid to about 1/4 cup. Watch carefully, so the starchy stock doesn't burn. Add the heavy cream and reduce until you have between 1/2 cup and 2/3 cup of reduced cream mixture. add the garlic confit to the hot cream mixture and remove from the heat.

4.Preheat the oven to 400ºF.  Place the salt cod and potatoes into the bowl of a food processor, along with the shallots and garlic. Add about half of the hot cream, and process until creamy. Add as much of the remaining cream as needed. It should be the consistency of smooth mashed potatoes. Taste for seasoning. If you soaked the salt cod long enough, it may need salt, and will certainly need a jolt of good black pepper.

4. Oil a flattish baking dish or two. Place the brandade in the baking dish(es), drizzle the top with some olive oil, and place in the oven for about 15 minutes, until browned and bubbly. Serve with sliced baguette to spread it on.